India part Two “The Return“
Dec 27th 2018
So there I was sat by my pool. Contemplating if it was too hot to get up and get a cold beer, when random thoughts started to kick in and drift though my mind about the up coming Christmas festivities. What should I do..? Zooming off to see Family and Friends was out of the question, over the Crimbo period that would be way too expensive.
So I continued to ponder, the thought of the beer slipped from my mind. Crimbo was now becoming serious. Several options floated through my head. Stay in Thailand over the Festivities. Perhaps go to Bangkok..? Head up north to the cooler Chang Mai..? What ever passed though my mind seemed to involve Thailand and Partying through Crimbo and the New Year..! Not really my first choice of ways to spend Crimbo.
Now in Hua Hin I have some amazing friends who I am sure would be preparing to have wonderful celebrations that would have included my good self. But it just wasn’t what I wanted. Thoughts of Cambodia and Vietnam drifted by, so too heading south perhaps to Phuket. But all these thoughts involved the same things ‘Eating Loads’ and probably getting too many hangovers.
So it was time to get my sensible head on and start thinking properly. In 2016 I had on a whim decided to visit India. This turned out to be an absolutely fantastic experience. Feel free to read about it on here in my previous writings.
Thoughts of repeating the experience started to grow in my mind..! Now we are not talking about a Booked Trip with a Travel company here…”HELL NO..!” This is a turn up and totally wing it kind of trip. A follow your nose and see where it leads type of journey.
Much wiser people than me have said great things about journeys. LAO TZU said “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step” GOETHE said. “Whatever you do, or dream you can begin it. Boldness has Genius and Power in it.” Perhaps when I am famous I might be remembered for this quote… CHESTY GARDNER “Life is a journey that must be traveled no matter how bad the Roads the Accommodation or the Coffee..”
So this acorn of a thought started to build, gestate, then bloom and soon it was huge. Return to India! On my first trip I had seen as much as I could squeeze in into my three weeks..! But India is huge, I had but scratched the surface. Time to put this Bad Boy of a plan into motion.
Laughingly I sometimes think that booking though a tour firm would have been way easier. However had I done that I would never have learned how to get an Indian E Visa. Nor read up so much about traveling around India on so many different websites..! Do not take what is written on Lonely Planet as ‘Gospel’ things rapidly change, and in India that’s daily. Great research is a fabulous bonus to aid you in your travels. In the military we had a saying “Prior Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.” It holds good today as it did when I was in and serving.
As this was my second time getting all my paperwork sorted for India, I must say it was a little slicker. Still a total pain but slicker non the less. So with flights, Visa, Hotel and Train all booked it was just kill time until I took that first step.
The killing time bit was easy, fantastic weather, great food and beer, partying.. Temple time. Like I said easy, apart from when I spoke to people. “Your going where?” “Why India” Its Filthy” ” The Foods terrible, your will get Delhi Belly” And on and on the conversations went..! Its not dissimilar to talking to people in the UK who have never been to Thailand and think the country is inhabited only by Bar Girls or Lady boys. They say Travel Broadens the Mind..! personally I think people should travel more. There might be less wars if our politicians got out more too..!But that a discussion for another day.
Jan 3rd 2019
Too Bangkok and then India.
Well my travel day arrived, everything was packed all my papers were secured in my Man Bag. I had my I Pad on its last minuet charge in the bed room. I was squeaky clean and ready to Rock and Roll. My lift was booked in the manner of my dear friend Sam who was running me the ten minuets in to town to the Bus Depot. First phase of the journey was a four hour coach journey to Bangkok. So Sam was sitting on the sofa supping his cup of tea, I wandered my house coffee in hand ensuring that lights and air con were off. I did not want to return to a surprise bill.
“OK Mate time to go Hustle Hustle..!” implored Sam impatient as ever. “OK lets go.” I retorted just as eager to be on my way. One last look around the living room and I secured my home and we were soon on our way into town. The idea was to drop my bag off at the bus depot then grab a coffee in town. But on arrival at the Depot both Sam and I were shocked to see the bus was leaving half an hour earlier than we had understood when booking my ticket. So on the bus I got and moments later was trundling towards Bonkers Bangkok. Now settled in my reclining chair, I decided to take out my I Pad and waste some time on the inter webs. It was at that exact moment I realized hurrying never helps. And my I Pad was still charging next to my bed. Which is why most of my Blogging will happen in internet cafes all over India…!
Don Mueang International Airport Bangkok is a less hectic version of its big sister Suvarnabhumi Airport. Way more friendly. Though in my humble opinion it could do with more coffee shops..! The magic in dealing with Airports I have found is to wear minimal attire. And absobloodylutly no metal. Flip Flops are the ideal choice of foot wear, as you will want to slip your shoes off once airborne anyway.
I may have Ranted on about my fellow traveler’s before. But it still Grips my $*#@, that in this day and age we have complete numpties turning up at check in security dripping with Bling, and sporting more fluid in there carry on than they could drink on a night on the lash..! It’s not the process of check in that takes up the time. It is standing in line behind Dolly Daydream from Scarborough has she is instructed to ditch all her fluids that are in huge containers in her carry on..! Then waste further chilling out time as she argues with the security guy about how desperate her false hair extensions need all her collection of the Boots hair care range.
But the thing that drew me closest to violence and verbal outrage was waiting for her to unlace her boots..! As her friend Gormless Gail from Goole started the exact same rigmarole as she too was told to ditch all her fluids…! Could have been worse, they could have been Back Packers..!
Once through Check In, which I hasten to add I flew though when it was my turn, I headed for a Coffee and then a mooch around to find a plug socket to charge my phone. Lots of Airports could learn from New Delhi Airport. It is the only Airport I know that is beautifully user friendly. Great toilet facilities that include free showers, comfortable reclining sun lounger seats every where, and huge working charging points for phones and laptops. Don Mueang has some of these but nowhere near enough. Those charging points I tried were all sadly in a terrible state of repair. So my thoughts wandered to unplugging the Master arrivals and departure display screen to avail myself of a plug outlet, when fortunately I saw an unused socket on the boarding gate desk..! As there were no staff there to say don’t…! I was soon plugged in charging and happy as Larry.
When booking my ticket I could have, if the whim took me booked extra legroom at a mere snip of 20 pounds sterling. I chose not to do this as the flight was only three hours. This was quite fortuitous as there were perhaps twelve of us on the flight. So once aboard it was spread out over four seats and a snooze for me…!
It was a night flight so there’s not a great deal I can report from my Isle Seat, nor my Window seat, or those in between other that to report that if ever you are in the isle seat and fancy a tad more room. You can raise the armrest. Now normally to a regular Punter this armrest is fixed and immovable. But to those of us in the know and Medically trained. This armrest holds no secrets. As it must be movable to aid the evacuation of a sick or incapacitated traveler. So here is the secret to more room. Under the back of the armrest nearest the back rest is a hidden button, press this and the armrest will raise giving you a couple more inches space. I hope this Tit Bit of knowledge aids you in your travels.
The Hotel.
To Gwalior and the Indian Sub Continent.
Dec 31 2018
Sleep was all encompassing and I woke refreshed and re energized. My desire for a coffee was way greater than my need to look around. So I strolled up Bazaar Street looking for a Coffee shop or a street side Cafe. Bazaar street climbs gently away from the railway station up towards a street market in what you might call a square. The street market in in the place of what should be a traffic round about. All the market does is add to the chaos that is Indian traffic. But hey the stall venders have to make a living, and it would appear that I’m the only person who found the set up odd. Just before entering the square on the right hand side I noticed a sign saying rooftop Cafe. Winner, exactly what I was looking for. Time to pop upstairs for Breakfast.
Whoever built the stairs leading to the Cafe did not take into consideration that many decades after construction broad western shoulders might wish to visit his rooftop. It was an interesting ascent, but the view was well worth it. It was nice to overlook the rambasamba that was the human chaos below yet not be a part of it. The noise was vibrant, the smells still wafted up. But everything was just nicely far enough away so as to enjoy my breakfast in peace.. loud peace but peace non the less.
The coffee was plentiful, my toast hot and the poached eggs well worth the wait. I would have quite happily whiled away another hour up there just watching the world pass by me below. Sadly that was not possible..! I had a train to catch, and I had ridden that Roller Coaster before.
Great Britain can fit inside India Twelve times with room to spare. And our mish mash of companies no matter what bullshit they say on TV and their advertising. Do not have the trains running smoothly or on time. So perhaps we may give India Railways some slack for the odd delay or cancelled train. Once you understand the system using the trains becomes quite simple.
If you choose to book your ticket on the India Railway site. Then good luck you’re a braver man the me Gunga Din. Their site works but its slow and crashes way too often, normally just as you’re in the process of paying. Whether they will accept your credit card this week for payment is a little hit or miss too. So what I found online was 12go.asia it is a fantastic third party site. It’s simple to use and takes all credit cards, and you receive your ticket confirmation in moments on line.
If you are in Delhi and near the Train station like I was, an alternative is to book directly at the International Tourist Bureau. This is on the first floor above platform one at New Delhi Main Station. On your approach to the Station just ignore all the touts. They will tell you its a bank holiday, the office is closed, its moved, there was a flood, the locations changed..! All this is BULL just to get you to buy a way more expensive ticket from a dodgy dealer that may not even be valid or genuine.
Having located the office, on the two columns in the center of the room are located a form you must fill out and a machine giving out queue numbers. Take the number first then fill your form out. Because as you’re filling out your form it might not be unusual for twenty Back Packers to turn up on their way to Goa. Who will get tickets and that then means your in for a long wait. When your number flashes above the ticket seller go forward and take a seat at your allowed desk. Explain what you want and where you wish to go. The chap will bend over backwards to get you there. Payment is cash or card. With my second class, air con, sleeper berth booked, I had three hours to kill so it was back to Bazaar Street, Gully Number Six to book out of my hotel and a little shopping before getting on the Jhelum Express at platform one.
New Delhi railway station is the main railway station in Delhi, situated between Ajmeri Gate and Paharganj. It is one of the busiest railway station in the country in terms of train frequency and passenger movement. Nearly 500 trains a day start stop or pass through this outstanding rail hub. It is also the highest-earning railway station in Indian Railways by passenger spending.
I find train journeys interesting, and those in foreign countries even more so. Its a mixture of the people, the journey, the county side that you pass over, and the ability to do it sat or sleeping and with a coffee to hand. Other interesting bits about traveling on India Rail is it’s never boring. From start to finish your journey will be engaging. For example just getting my seat was fun.
I decided to wait on platform one, rather than in the waiting room as my wait was only short. I moved to a spot in the sun so was enjoying the warmth. This time of year being in the shade can be chilly. My train arrived as advertised and as each carriage is numbered with its designation. Locating mine was easy. I always travel light so no struggle boarding the carriage. Approaching my seat I saw and thought that the next minute or two might well be interesting. I had squatters on my bed..! An assortment of five people had made my bed their home for the journey. Bags were unpacked and a veritable pick nick was spread before them..!
Not being a Hindi speaker and my squatters pleading no knowledge of English we spent several minuets going around in circles. My fellow traveler’s very reluctant to move. They were as equally adamant to stay, as I was that they should leave. I must be honest there was a moment that I thought maybe I had it wrong and they were in the correct seat. I must have checked my ticket three or four times..!
My saviour came in the form of the laundry guy. Well once you board the train in a sleeper carriage the laundry chap pops by with clean sheets and a blanket and checks that you are the right person for that berth. Well I didn’t need to speak Hindi to understand the tongue lashing he gave my squatters. He was just short of violent as he threw bags and packages into the isle. I’m unsure of what became of them, one must just hope that they made their required destination in another carriage compatible with their tickets. I bore them no malice and hope they had a safe journey. As I did.
The journey was safe, but long. For a reason not explained to us mere mortals. India rail saw fit to divert my train. Now normally the Jhelum Express goes from New Delhi to Gwalior via Agra. Delhi to Agra is normally five hours and direct. My journey that afternoon and night was somewhat different. Our train was rerouted via, Ghaziabad, Hapur, Bulandshahr, Dubhai, Aligarh, Hathras ,Salabad then Agra Cantt. Turning Five hours into Ten. And we were only half way there. For this journey sleep eluded me, way too many stops and starts, with people crashing though the carriage as they got on and off at their stations. Fortunately the Char Wallah had coffee, and I a good sense of humour.
Gwalior Junction my destination is a main transport hub of India’s rail system, so the station like most in India never shuts. Getting a taxi at 05:00am to my hotel was easy. Because I had booked my hotel online in Thailand. Check in was smooth and yet again my body could feel sleep calling it. A hot shower, scrub of the teeth and I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow.
Settling into Gwalior and the trip to Datia.
As a kid I once heard of the theory of six degrees of separation. It sort of goes like this. The idea is that all living things, and everything else in the world, are six or fewer steps away from each other. So for example “a friend of a friend” statement can be made to connect any two people in a maximum of six steps. The idea was first put forward in a short story called Chains in 1929. So working with this belief, it’s not hard to link me with a wonderful family living in the center of India. I managed this in only three links. My friend Mark, an Ex Marine, his girlfriend then Prity…! Simple isn’t it..!
In my previous scripts I have mentioned these wonderful people. and spoke deeply of their hospitality towards me. But I feel they deserve a greater mention. We have Mum, Dad, Eldest son Rajesh with wife and two sons. Prity the daughter and Sunil the Cousin. All living in an amazing four story house that Dad built.
Mum, is a typical elderly Indian lady. Modest, reserved, highly focused on home making, and a great cook. She is not well traveled, but tries to make up for it with her favourite TV channel “The Travel Chanel.” My goal was to get her out of the home and let her see some of her own wonderful country.
Dad, a jovial Indian gentleman. Busy with his building contracts. But always making time for family, the children and visitors. Rajesh, hard working as a Lab Tech in the local Teaching Hospital, has a wife and two young boys. My fabulous guide and mentor for all things Indian, who I cannot thank enough. I cannot say much about his wife as Indian culture forbids much contact with another chaps wife. To the point she was generally veiled in my presence. Though the more I was accepted by Mum and Dad the less strict that became. Although I tried my hardest to observe protocol. What can I say about Rajesh’s boys. Eight and five year old whirlwinds. Who when not fighting each other are inseparable. And pretended to be shy for about thirty seconds when I arrived, then reverted to their normal roustabout selves.
Prity, a picturesque hard working lady who works as a College Dorm Administrator at the Datia Medical College. When not working and at home she becomes the big sister to the two boys.
Prity, Rajesh and myself.
Sunil, the cousin is quite focused on his studies. His goal in life is to enter the Police force as an inspector. An admiral aspiration for any young man. This requires passing extra exams, thus why Sunil has his head in his books most of the time. Though when I can, I also try to include him in our adventures beyond his city. Now it’s with this lovely family that I had traveled to share my time with.
For people who do not know me too well. Let me just confirm to you that I’m an avid carnivore. A meat lover of the highest order. I like my meat with a side order of meat. If it walks, crawls, runs, swims or shows its arse to the sun. I’ll eat it. Which is not too great when all your hosts are vegetarian. I’d like to regale you with stories of hidden packs of Bacon, midnight trips to Steakhouses..! But no, I put on my big boy trousers and settled in for the long haul. Have I need to complain about any meals..! Not yet. And I am sure the reason is not me getting accustomed to no meat. I’ve deduced the reasons quite simple. Everything that I am eating is freshly prepared in the Kitchen at home or in the Pan on the street. All done with fresh vegetables herbs and spices. An absolute delight for your taste buds. Nothing processed or out of a tin can. A total delight to eat. Will this convert me to being Vegetarian? I very much doubt it but I shall definitely cook more Indian meals when I’m home.
Once I had settled in to my hotel routine, got my bearing and found an internet cafe. It was time to venture further afield. A trip to Datia to visit the milky mountain of Sonagiri. Milky Mountain…? The name Sonagiri actually means mountain of gold. I was surprised by this, till Prity told me that 77 beautiful temples, all in white colour is the reason behind the Milky bit of Sonagiri Hill name. At 70 km away it would do for a start. The idea was to take Mum to see where Prity works and pop into a temple or two in the local area. This would be a family affair, only unfortunately Dad would remain behind as he had work commitments.
As seven of us would be participating a Land cruiser was booked. On Indian roads we would need the room and suspension. I used to giggle when I lived in Bangkok about there not being a hundred yards of flat pavement to walk on..! In India there’s no Pavement at all and definitely not a hundred yards of flat road to drive on. I’m sure I’ve mentioned before how hectic the driving is in India. But if you have arrived late I’ll recap. There are no rules, anything is deemed acceptable. For example driving the wrong way against the flow of traffic. Cutting under a round about because the distance is shorter. Undertaking on any lane. Driving without lights mirrors or indicators. Being massively overladen. Stopping anywhere or in any lane. I’m sure your beginning to get my drift. This however doesn’t include animals.
I have seen just on this trip, Camels, Donkeys, Cows, Goats, Pigs, Horses harnessed and free roaming, Elephants and a Herd of Buffalo. All wandering the streets among the traffic. Now intersperse all that with cars, buses and trucks of all shapes and sizes carrying all manner of things. You may feel that the roads may be a little congested. But no we are not done yet, we need a smattering of old guys pushing hand carts, and thousands of scooters filling any and all available space who are trying to dodge the pedestrians who have no pavement to walk on. That in a nut shell is Indian traffic on a good day.
He with the ‘Biggest Balls’ and ‘Loudest Horn’ invariably wins, sometimes it’s having nerves of steel and hoping the other guy blinks first. Or great breaks. On our trip to Datia we passed a couple of gentle rear end shunts and two lorries that had smashed head on, it was not good to see, and in no way slowed our driver down. Perhaps it was our drivers driving style, or the bumpy road but just short of entering Datia at one of the temples we would visit later. We had to drop off Rajesh as he was feeling and being travel sick. He could get some fresh air and we would collect him on our return. Our next stop was Prity’s College. Being a man and it being female accommodation. I was pointed to the dinning hall. Where I chatted to the Catering Manager and had a well needed coffee. The Ladies and Children were given the regal tour and in just over half an hour I was summoned back to the car. Mum was delighted that she had seen Prity’s new room and work place. So we had a cheeky photo call then it was off to reclaim Rajesh.
Where we left Rajesh was at the entry to the Sonagiri Jain Hill Temples. Here there are a hundred and three temples all dating back to the ninth century. 77 on hill and 26 in the village some large some tiny. Some fairly plain and yet others truly stunning. There is a column of dignity 43 ft. in height and an attractive model of Samavsharan. From the entry gate you follow a beautifully maintained walk way up a ridge line passing temple after temple. This is done barefoot on a blisteringly hot stone and marble walk way. I’m happy to say that we had timed our visit for late afternoon where the majority of the paths were in shade. To be honest this was more luck than planing. I must also be honest and say that my poor soft western feet did suffer on the parts still exposed to the Sun. And especially towards the top of the complex on the exposed white marble..! I not sure my feet have forgiven me yet…!
I’m not sure why but some were open and others firmly secured. Oddly there were no monkeys. I’m not sure for the reason but my wild guess is that Jain Religion doesn’t involve food offerings. “No Food No Monkeys”. I would also like to add that this area compared to other areas I had seen was a heck of a lot cleaner, very little if any litter. It was a joy to behold.
Lots of devotees and saints come to this wonderful place to practice self-discipline and to attain Nirvana, freedom from the cycles of life and death. It is understood by the devoted that up until now Five & half Crores ( a Crore being Ten Million) of ascetic saints have achieved salvation (Moksha or Nirvana) at this holy place. Nang, Anang, Chintagati, Poornachand, Ashoksen, Shridatta, Swarnbhadra and many other saints achieved salvation from here. Acharya Shubh Chandra & Bhartrihari lived and worked here for their spiritual achievements.
Temple number fifty seven is the main temple. Huge in size with a very artistic spire. The main deity for this temple is Lord Chandrasekhar. A statue of him is inside standing eleven feet tall. Two other Idols are there Sheetalnath and Parsvanatha. Near by is a forty three foot high column of dignity.
I’m not a religious man myself. But I will defend the right of anyone to believe in anything they choose. And to be fairly honest there is a certain solemnity to be found in church’s and temples. A place where you can walk slowly as the world spins frantically outside. A place to stand and feel your heart rate slow down. A place that you can sit or stand and quietly talk to your past self or your future self. Even engage with passed family members albeit sadly they don’t talk back..! Oh but if they could..! Or if you could tune in to passed people… anyone! PLATO would be my first chat, assuming he had the time for me.
As the Sun started to creep down towards the western horizon, it signaled our time to start our return journey. Rajesh being no fool opted to take the train as his tummy could not handle another three hours on the road..! Having bid farewell to him our remaining team drove off into the sunset.
We made one stop on our return journey for the simple reason small boys and western tourist complain less if fed regularly. While driving through the towns on our return trip I noticed that along the main streets in front of the regular shops food stalls were springing up with all manner of culinary delights. So it was decided that a snack stop was in order.
Our driver a rather quiet chap was informed of the plan and at the next towns strip of food stalls he stopped. Choosing to park in the middle of the strip of stalls next to a Cow helping its self to any leftovers that were being discarded into the rubbish container.
No matter who you are male, female child or adult. In India before you eat hands are washed and at several locations along the freshly erected food stands were taps or water containers ideally situated for that purpose. So once we had all completed our ablutions we were ready to eat…!
I had gone for fried potato fritters called Aloo Tikki, in a spicy though mild green sauce. Which was delightful. Samosa’s and stuffed nan breads with all sorts of vegetarian fillings were the choice of my fellow traveler’s. With chilled water to wash it down with.
As tasty as my potato fritters were, I was still hungry. So how does one ask for seconds in polite company, without seaming rude or greedy..? In my case the solution was easy. Small boys are nothing more that two legged eating machines. I asked the boys if they were still hungry. Two smiling faces with full mouths nodded. So I asked Prity if she would order three more portions. Our second portions were devoured as swiftly as the first and I and the boys were happily full. As I often say. “Winners find a way..!” Within fifteen minutes or so we were all happily fed and watered and taking advantage of the water station to tidy up before getting back into our vehicle.
Ten portions of assorted Indian suppers three bottles of water and a coffee, all for the princely sum of £7.00, 704 rupees, $9.39 or 304 thai baht. Outstanding value and a taste sensation. We were all happily seated in the car, and with the sound and rhythm of the car engine the two boys were asleep in moments.
I had to contend with being up the front with the driver. I have no idea how many times my right foot slammed an imaginary break pedal. Sitting up front I felt it just put me closer to the impact, of any impending collision. Driving in the daylight in India is in a few words, “menacing, danger-some, precarious even unsafe”. How can I describe driving at night..! Here goes..! “Touch and go, threatening, breakneck, treacherous even perilous”. Now having said that as the foreigner, I must also add that there is a rhythm to it, it sort of flows like a dance. Not a Viennese Waltz kind of dance. More like a mosh pit, where there are no rules but everyone knows what’s going on. That we got home and I’m still writing is proof that our driver had mastered ‘The dance.’
Chesty Traveling 