I have mentioned in my other writings that I stayed in the lovely city of Gwalior while in India. My main reason for staying there was because my wonderful and charming hosts Prity, Rajesh and their family live there. It’s also a neat location to access other great parts of India from.
Gwalior is northern and central in India. Making it an easy start point for traveling to the wondrous treasures in the north of the country. Like the Taj Mahal and The Red Fort to name just two. Yet Gwalior isn’t just a stepping stone to other places, it holds its own treasures too.
The greatest treasure has to be the people of the city. Not for one-second did I not feel welcome. No matter who I was with or what we were doing. Though I must add that I was the only European I saw my whole time there. With this being so, I never felt like I was on show or being stared at. People did look at me but the look was normally followed with a nice engaging smile. Or even a polite question about where I was from and if I was enjoying my time in India. Then quite often a request for a photo with me..! To which I would willingly oblige.
As an example take my meeting for coffee with Rajesh’s work mates. As an Englishman, most people find it odd that I don’t drink Tea. So here I am in the center of a country that exported $75.38 millions worth of the stuff last year. And I don’t touch a drop. Situated all over India on most street corners you will find a little box with a Chap inside, or a light wheeled waggon with a charming Old Lady or gentleman selling all manner of flavours and mixtures of tea for commuters on the go. Or for individuals just taking a moment to have a nice cup of Char and a pause in their lives.
Rajesh had told me that he had organised to meet his work colleagues for a chat and would I like to join them. My answer was a definite yes. We were meeting at a park with a large pond in its center. So this involved a trip on Rajesh’s motor bike. I have mentioned Indias traffic in my other writings so I’ll not re-hash over old ground. But I must take a moment to tell you dear reader that I felt safe on the rear of his steel chariot. We maintained normal speeds and traveled on the correct side of the roads. Parking in front of the Park gates and joining Rajesh’s fellow workers who were waiting for us incident free.
Four Co-workers were waiting for us. Once introductions and pleasantries had been exchanged we took a stroll around the pond. There was no rush and I managed to chat with the guys collectively and each guy individually.
Learning about their rolls in the Training Hospital where they all worked, and giving them a brief outline of my Military and now Civilian life. On completion of our tour of the park it was time for some refreshments. We exited the park and strolled left where we were walking alongside a wall covered in advertising boards then out of the blue is a small doorway.
Rajesh motions us all to enter and once inside we were in the large garden terras of a restaurant. Talk about a hidden gem, the place was wonderful with hanging flowers, and cute ornaments, and large enough for reasonable sized parties. Inside were three or four families enjoying their foods, ice creams and drinks. What I found crazy was the total lack of advertising outside..! It just seemed odd to my western mind.
Well, once seated at a one of the larger tables in the garden a charming lady approached us for our order. Sort of being the guest, I was invited to order first. I asked the lady if she did coffee, and might I have a not too strong coffee with hot milk. She said it would be no trouble at all. Then looked to my fellow travellers for their orders. Each in their turn said coffee sounds good we will have it like Chesty’s.
Having five avid tea drinkers order coffee in the middle of India, maybe I’ve started a movement. Hopefully in years to come the Indian economy doesn’t crash because of a new wave of Coffee not Tea Drinkers, only time will tell.
While seated at our table and enjoying our piping hot coffees the conversation turned to the Gwalior Trade Fair, and would I have time to visit it? I was intrigued, what was this trade fair and when was it..?
The guys explained that the trade fair was a Trade and Carnaval event all wrapped into one. Stalls were arriving daily and they would all be ready for the weekend. It certainly sounded like something I’d love to be a part of. So Rajesh suggested that we make a date to go on Sunday evening. That sounded great to me, as we could take the family. Though not expressly agreed upon, it was understood that we would bump into the guys at the fair sometime during the Saturday evening.
So Coffee’s consumed, it was time for the guys to head home or back to work which ever was calling them. As a treat I picked up the tab for the coffees and we headed outside to bid each other farewell. Just before the guys departed there was the customary selfie moment. Our FaceBook followers demand frequent updates, and I hate to disappoint them.
A couple of selfies for FaceBook…..!
Rajesh and his steel chariot then whisked me back safely to my Hotel, I was quite looking forward to Sunday. On the way back to my Hotel Rajesh did a quick drive by the Trade fair to show me it being constructed..!
It was agreed that on Sunday late afternoon we would book a land cruiser to ferry us to the Trade Fair. And at the pointed hour we were all collected. The family from their home, then me from the hotel. A relatively short but horn blaring journey and we were deposited at the main entrance to the trade fair.
The area that the trade fair was situated on is used for many things during the year. But for the next couple of weeks it’s a trade fair. Just off the main Mela Road, also known as Racecourse Road is a rather large and imposing main entrance way, leading to the main thoroughfares. To the left and right are rectangular areas and further offshoots leading to more rectangular areas. To the rear of this large area is a vast open grassy, dusty area, perhaps two or more football fields in size.
The main thoroughfare and its off shoots were all concreted walkways, the actual stalls were erected on the grassed dusty area just off the concrete. So walking around was easy, with just the odd pothole here and there. Down the center of most walkways were a myriad of venders selling everything from sweetmeats to toilet plungers, and all manner of things in between.
The larger more imposing stalls were positioned to the sides of the walkways affording them more room. Things like leather clothing stalls or restaurants able to seat a hundred or more patrons. What I liked about the restaurants is that the cooking was masterfully done in full view of the passers by, with the ever present fantastic smells following your every step.
We had arrived just before sunset, and now with dusk well upon us the whole mood of the place changed. As the Sun set the whole place lit up into a bazillion neon, spinning or flashing lights. I’m sure my humble photo’s will not do the visual experience justice.
In my youth I have worked on fair grounds. As a teenager I have frittered away lots of hard earned cash on fair ground attractions. And as an Adult I’ve treated my children to trips to fairs on many continents. Though I must say I’ve never seen a Fair like this one.
I suppose I could break it down into three areas. The Trade Element, the Fair Ground element then the Culinary side. I will start with the trade element first. There were shops and stalls of every size. Selling just about anything you could humanly carry away without aid. In some cases perhaps a team carry.
The manner of the stall holders were cordial and polite. There were no Market Screamers as you would find in a Souk, or selling goods outside a Temple in Egypt.
If you wish to buy something you approached the stall and a conversation unfolded. “How big” “What colour” “How much”…..! Then the “Haggling” would begin. Now, there is an art to haggling, Both sides must end the haggle feeling they came off best. If the end price is too high the customer will feel bad, and maybe walk away with no sale happening. If the customer lowballs the vendor… again ‘No sale.’ So like I mentioned Haggling is an ‘Art..!’
Here are a few Haggling tips for the buyer..!
- Get in the haggling mindset.
- Prepare your mind and body with proper rest.
- Do your research so you know where to go and what to pay.
- Learn key phrases to help your negotiations.
- Never be the first to say a price.
- Know your price ceiling and stick with it.
- Be willing to walk away with disinterest.
- Ask for a Deal on Multiple Items. …
- Point Out Defects. …
- Show Disinterest. …
- Be Assertive. …
- Be Willing to Walk Away. …
- Show Hesitation. …
- Be Comfortable With Silence. …
- Make Them Set the Price.
If you apply these tips you will have some good bargain hunting experiences. Though do remember the vendor must feel good about the deal too.
How do I describe the Fair element..? If you have been to the Golden Mile at Blackpool, Or attended the Hull Fair. Or maybe Coney Island, or the Agricultural Fair in Paris with its Carousels and Big Wheel. You will have an understanding of what makes a fair. And in todays modern age with things going higher and faster you will be familiar with all the Health and Safety protocols involved with running such a venue. Now let’s take a look at the Gwalior Trade Fair and its rides and attractions.
Lets say for example you had an attraction something similar to a Big Wheel that you had built in the 1930’s and you had toured Europe with it for 50 years, and this poor attraction was well past it’s sell by date. And it was looking for somewhere to go and retire. The Gwalior Trade Fair is where you will find it. Minus the Health and Safety.
The rides and attractions are working, in some cases just working. Held together by nuts and bolts and the odd magical weld here and there. The patrons are not shall we say, ‘secured in their seats’ it’s more of ‘Here is a little bar we shall fold over in front of you and hope you don’t catapult into the horizon.’ Now having said this, did it deter me from engaging and enjoying the rides and attractions ‘no it did not..!’
I and the whole gang had a fantastic experience stretched over several hours, spinning, swinging and rotating all over the place. Much fun and merriment was had by all of us, and I would redo it all in a heart beat.
And, so to now the culinary element. Something very dear to my heart and always will be is food. I have a little saying. “If it walks, crawls, swims, flys or shows its arse to the sun, then I will eat it.” And being fairly honest there isn’t much I have not eaten, ranging from Black Scorpions, thought Crocodile, Alligator, Tree Grubs, Puppy and all manner of western regular foods.
I work on the principle of try anything once, as you will never know if you like it or not. If you just balk at the appearance or knowledge that its an odd body part of an animal you will never know if you missed out on a gastronomical delight..!
For by 63rd birthday I enjoyed not only a delightful birthday cake, but also some crispy tree frogs. The Birthday cake was a Chocolate one with a glazed cherry on top, which tasted delicious. The crispy tree frogs tasted somewhat like the English Pub treat ‘Pork Scratchings’. One should never reject things until you have tested or tasted them first.
Now getting back to the fair, and its culinary delights. On entering the main walkway my nostrils were delighted to pick up all manner of wonderful smells of cooking treats. Everything from Breads, cakes, curries to huge Dustbin lid sized Quavers.
Quavers are a deep-fried potato-based British snack food. Launched in the UK in 1968, they were originally made by Smith’s. Since 1997 they have been produced by Walkers.
Watching the guys cook these was a joy in itself. Though I personally would not get too near to the screamingly hot fat that they are cooked in. The food stall holders have to bring everything to the fair themselves. Only basic electricity and communal toilets are on the site.
So tents or structures, tables and chairs, ovens and pans you name it they have to bring it cook it then present it for sale. The ingenuity of the vendors knows no bounds. From huge boiling hot vats of oil to home made brick ovens. I was amazed at how things were achieved.
When abroad a good rule of thumb is that if you are eating local or street food. Always try and eat a busy locations. For one if the locals are queuing to eat there then its generally good food. Also if the place is busy the turnover of freshly cooked food will be swift, leaving less chance of you getting food that’s been sat around for a while. Here at the fair there were healthy queues at all the vendors. So I felt secure in trying lots of unusual things based on looks colour and smell. With Prity and family to guide me. Oh and a shout out to the ever present eating machines that are Rajesh’s two wonderful boys. Who were always happy to try things with me..!
I was very impressed with many treats and savouries. But for me the most impressive visually was the Ice cream made on a spinning metal drum. You choose the flavours, fruits and sauces then leave it up to the very skilled chap to transform it into neat little rolls of delicious ice cream via the spinning drum. A real joy to watch, and even better to eat.
Having ridden certainly all the larger rides and many smaller ones too, eaten all that could be eaten. And purchased stuff to take home. It was noticed that the children had stopped being little whirlwinds and their noise level had reduced measurably. A sure sign they are tired. So having had a wonderful evening. The Land cruiser was called for and we left for home and my hotel.
In my hotel room the kettle was on while I showered. So a nice coffee to round the evening off and then I was fast asleep in moments.
Chesty Traveling 