Feb 5 2017
So there I was chilling in Bangkok having just returned from India, when who should pop up in town but Raymond Kennedy. I had not seen him for some thirty eight years. So a meet up had to happen. Not only had I not seen Ray neither had Gavin Fifield, a fellow light infanteer living in Bangkok. Well it didn’t take long for a plan to be formulated. And a fishing trip to Hua Hin was proposed. We would stay in the Anantara Hotel in Hua Hin and fish at the Hua Hin Fishing Lodge. Our host would be Terry, we would fish both of his ponds and our targets would be Giant Siamese Carp, Asian Redtail Carp, Arapaima and the Alligator Gar. And it would be rude not to have a little wager on the outcome.
Our trip to the Anantara hotel in Hua Hin was by air con taxi, and was swift and comfortable. The best bit of the morning had to be our greeting by the hotel staff. We stepped out of the Taxi to a gentleman in uniform holding three ice cold beers, and a large sign declaring our arrival. Well done hotel staff I say. The rooms were ideal, with lots of added little extras and special touches. The Anantara staff were just superb in every respect. And as a big carnivore the provision of proper bacon at breakfast was just fabulous. I cannot do the overly crispy American style bacon… That stuff is just pants.
Now I have many friends and mates who rave about the sport of Angling, and as the earliest depictions of fishing are in Egypt from about 2000 BC and even in Chinese writings from the 4th Century BC describing fishing with silk line and hooks made of bent needles and bamboo poles. References to types of fishing can also be found in the early writings of the Greeks, Roman, Jewish and Assyrians. So these guys have lots of history to fall back on. I on the other hand rave not about angling, I rate it just up above train spotting in terms of exciting sports. But I do live by the mantra of try anything once. So never having fished before I was prepared to approach the event with an open mind. And we would be drinking beer once the sun was over the yardarm…! So all was not bad.
No fishing was proposed for our arrival afternoon so once showered we headed into the highlights that are Hua Hin town centre. Beer was the order of the afternoon and evening. And I must be honest we had a great night sampling the beers in several bars and closed the evening out with a fantastic pork wrap or two on the way home. Sleep in my huge bed came easy and was deep and fulfilling. Perhaps not so for my battle partner Ray who claimed I snored..! I heard nothing so it must have never happened. Breakfast was great with real bacon and the coffee was superb so fully sated we were off to go fishing.
When you arrive at Terry’s fishing lodge having pre booked your slot the fishing guides deal with everything for you. Bringing rods, bait, setting hooks and floats all for you. Even top tipping you where to cast. Now like I said earlier I am not an angler, but with no pun intended I was soon hooked. Seeing your float move knowing that a huge fish is toying with your bait, is it time to strike or not..? Mostly….no. Wait….. till that float tracks off at high speed then boom strike and the fish is on. On the line but not caught yet. That’s why they call it fishing not catching..! Now many things can go wrong from the strike to getting the fish onto the bank. Hooks bend, Fish turn the hook and slip off, lines snap, the fish run with the bait but not the hook. And many other dilemmas that great fishing tales are made of.
The exhilaration you feel when the rod bends and the line fly’s out… Is nothing compared to the frustration you feel when the rod snaps back and the fish is free. My largest run on no shows for fish was five consecutive fails…! So a good bite, great line out, a good strike…the excitement of reeling in then…BOOM, the rod fly’s back and the fish is off and in the reeds giggling at you. Our first success was Ray with a huge Red Tail, followed by Gavin and a big catfish. I was on bread as bait. And I could see my float being played with but not being taken. But I had a beer and I was sat in the shade so life was not all bad.
When it happens it’s like lightning, and it will happen when you’re least prepared. Now if you know about fishing you will know to keep your reel lock off once you have cast your line out. This lets the fish take the bait and track off and eat the hook. If for some reason your reel lock is on what can happen is the fish will take the bait, the line will go tight and the rod and reel will disappear into the lake getting towed by the fish…! Which to the casual observer is funny as hell..! To the unwitting fishing novice it’s the ultimate in screw ups….! Fortunately both times when Gavin and Ray committed this ultimate sin I was on hand to save the day, and I managed to rescue both rods…! Oh and learn how not to screw up myself.
It was not too long before my first proper bite. I have to be honest my heart was racing and the whole experience was thrilling. Reeling in my fish was way harder than I at first thought. Just when you think your winning they track off again dragging out more line. Several minutes of it winning and then me winning finally resulted in me getting my first catfish on the bank. Sadly my policy of catch and release into “Hot Grease” was not seen too favourably. So I had to return my big beauty to the water. If I was to eat fish today then I would have to order it off the menu from the restaurant. No lakeside BBQ today..! Ray and Gavin were both on a roll and were pulling in huge fish on a regular basis, using bread and fish as bait. My luck came later in the afternoon with a few beauties. But my final catch of the day had to be my most interesting, I had the same fish on my line four times. But got him on the bank only once.
He was a huge Asian Redtail and my first encounter with him was when I cast my bait two yards out from the bank. Straight away my float was moving around..then off it zoomed..! A carefully timed good clean strike and he was mine…so I thought…! Once I’d struck and he new he was on the line my fish was off like a rocket to the other side of the pool. So began my battle to bring him back. This fella was a big powerful fish, and he knew a thing to two about survival. Five minuets of reeling him in and of him tracking off and I thought I was getting somewhere. The line was tight I was doing my best to reel him in when “Ker pow” the line went slack the rod flew back and my prize was gone…! He had managed on his thrashing around to turn the hook and slip off. I was learning loads today, never knew fish could do that. But hey suck it up and crack on. So I re baited my line and cast again back into the same spot. Within seconds my bait was being played with and the float was dancing around. Not daring to take my eyes off the float, but still sipping my beer, well I was on my Hollibobs. As I placed the bottle down I heard a Fizzzzz as my float and line sped off again…! Another good strike and I was back into fighting and reeling in my prize.
My prize obviously did not want to have his photo taken with me because he fought like mad tracking left and right. I diligently fighting him and reeling him in only for him to get close then track off out into the middle of the pond again…! When the line pings and the rod comes back at you. Hell that’s so disheartening. This time the hook had bent and he had escaped. The fishing guide, a very pleasant Thai young man who was re baiting my line said, “It’s the same fish..cast in the same place again.. He will take your bait again”. So in utter disbelief l did as instructed. Well buy me a pretty yellow dress and call me Esmerelda. Within seconds I had another bite, and the fight was re-on..! Very conscious of my two last failings I was being a tad more careful this time not being too strong so as to wrench the hook out or bend it, and with my rod steering the prize to where I wanted him to go….! Things were looking good, yes he fought well and on occasion tracked back out into the pool, but I was sure I had the measure of him this time.
Now I’ve been told a huge load of bull about fish in my time, things like their memory is only three seconds long, they don’t feel pain, they work on instinct… And much more. Well after my run in with this fish my view on them has radically changed. I was feeling good at this point sure that my quarry was tiring. I knew I was. But now was not the time to give in with the goal in sight. So trying to keep calm and reeling and trying to steer my prize in the direction I wanted. You would be amazed at my shock when my line this time shot off to my left and under the concrete terrace I was stood on. The fish in a few swift zig zag movements had dragged the line along the concrete edge severed the line and was free again…! It was at this moment I wanted to drain the pool, find the fish and convince that fish to go into a frying pan with the aid of a baseball bat…! I was livid..! But the ever present and calm guide re hooked and baited my line and told me to cast exactly in the same spot again. Evening was fast approaching and a hot shower in our hotel was calling, but ok one last effort.
With determination and the last draught of my beer I cast my line. Plop in it went at the exact spot as I had cast before…now to wait. Times a crazy thing, you wait for a bus and it drags out unbelievably, you’re with a pretty woman and it flies by. Time can be cruel. My previous casts had been snapped up in seconds. This one, well it just seemed to take forever. Was my bait being moved did the float just bob…? No calm down the line will fizz out when it’s ready. It seemed like ages then it was there…first a little movement. A wise old fish this one. Then a solid tug! Steady.. Don’t strike yet let him properly take the bait and run. So we watched….Ray, Gavi and I. My two valiant comrades feeling my pain had stopped fishing to cheer me on.
Then it happened, the line fizzed the float zoomed off and the new game was afoot. Another good strike, and the fight began. He was not prepared to surrender easily, nor was I. To and fro he darted tracking out deep only for me to reel him in. Sweat was dripping from me, but I was not for giving in. This fish and I had come to far for that, he would be mine if I had to stay the night on this bank. Not a fact a relished as the mosquitos had stared to rise. As like on the previous attempt to land this bad boy, he tried all sorts of manoeuvres, but I was savvy to his ploys by now, even walking up the terrace so he could get no advantage from his under terrace cave. He took some playing and I must say he gave as good as he got. But the honour was mine as eventually with the help of the fishing guide and a large landing net my nemesis was beached. Once the photo shoot was completed he was returned safely to his home… But deep in my heart I so wanted that bad boy on my plate that night. Well fishing completed off we walked to the lodge and our lift to the hotel. And really that could have been it for the day. But I had fifteen minutes in the car for a bit of reflection. And all that guff about fish being stupid, with limited brains and feelings. Hog wash is all I’ll say to that. They are certainly way more intelligent than they are given credit for. Can they learn..? Hell yes. Don’t ever see one using a screwdriver, or driving a car anytime soon, but they can learn and they are quite intelligent. And I for one maybe respect them a little more after my first days fishing.
Day two of the Gavin Fifield Light Infantry Invitational Fishing Competition.
After a hearty breakfast with great coffee and real bacon again in the wonderful hotel that is the Anantara. I was mulling over my stratagem for today’s follow up competition. Why not wing it like I had the day before I hear you ask. Well the previous evening a huge game changer had happened. Goong the lovely wife of our host Gavin had arrived. And I’d been told that fish queue up to throw themselves on her hook and line. If I was to seize the day I might need a proper plan.
With our arrival at the Hau Hin Fishing Lodge, the fishing guides got us straight into our stride. Rods were baited up and we were soon immersed into the days competition. My mind racing on how to nobble the competition. The biggest danger being Goong.
Now out and out cheating is not my game, and being an Englishman something I’d not stoop so low as to do. So how to take Goong’s mind off the win..? Arriving with the lovely Goong was her son CJ. Sadly he was not fishing as he had loads of school work that he had to complete. But in the manner of a proud son he was praising his Mum up as the champion angler she is. Might I have found a way in here, the edge I’ve been looking for, the chink in her armour. The gauntlet was thrown down..! A wager with CJ…! That will do the trick, add extra pressure to the mother through the child. Perhaps I was an evil genius in a previous life. So the wager was struck, one hundred Baht with CJ, it being who would catch the first fish Goong or I. Could any mother see her son loose his pocket money..? The pressure was now truly applied.
To be honest I do feel a little bad about Goong’s day, it was like the fish had all gone on holiday, vacationing the other side of the pool to where ever Goong chose to fish. Her cast after cast after cast was fruitless. Making my first fish and my victory feel all the sweeter. And for me that was the end of it…But nobody told the fish and they continued to avoid Goong’s line for most of the day. And I had a huge inward celebration when she hauled in a huge catfish just before lunch. The fight of the day ended up being a team event, a huge Redtail fought like mad and refused to play nice. It took the combined efforts of Ray, Gavin, Goong and the fish guide to wear him out and finally beach him. What a fish, a large sleek king of a fish. Warranting a team photo. Before being returned to his home.
Ray and Gavin had successful mornings catching four large fish apiece. Gavin though fishing in our pool was also working a separate line in the pool behind us searching for an elusive Alligator Gar. And as is when fishing he had it on the line twice before finally reeling him in. Ray and I were casting our lines from an open area between to large shady trees. Just as well there’s no prize for casting over your mates line, cause I’d have secured first prize. Fortunately our lines did not snag and with a bit of reeling in and jiggling about honour was saved. And Ray did not get too frustrated by my inept casting skills. To anyone that knows me especially my children, they will tell you that the games not over till I win. I just am not at all keen on loosing, at anything. But this fishing malarkey..! The Chest-miester may have to get more practice in if I’m going to be any good at it. The final tally if my memory serves me was Ray on seven fish. Gavin and I on six, and Goong on four or five, please forgive me I’m just not too sure. But as a gentleman I’ll say five for Goong.
With the mosquitos rising again as the evening drew closer it was time to pack up and head back to our hotel. So school books packed, rods returned, a swift final beer a goodbye to Terry our host and off we set. The journey to our hotel was interrupted only briefly for a call to an ATM to secure more beer tokens for the evenings revelry and a trip into the chemist for antihistamine cream for my eighteen Mossi bites. It was agreed on a forty minute turnaround in our hotel rooms to scrub up before popping out for supper. In good military fashion Ray and I were squeaky clean and in good order and on parade well in time. The venue for our vitals was to be an oceanfront seafood restaurant near the centre of Hua Hin. What a fantastic choice, the food and service was super. And the whole experience capped of with the smell and the sound of the sea under you and the stars and moon above, truly a great location.
Now it’s not for me to ever get in a position to tell governments or councils how to behave, or what’s good or bad. But for some reason the powers that be want to dismantle these restaurants and move the businesses elsewhere. And I’m sure that their reasons are totally valid. But when it happens I’m sure that Hua Hin will lose a lot of its beautiful character. Much like when they closed the night street vendors along Sukumvit road in Bangkok. Only time will tell.
With CJ nearly falling asleep at the supper table. It was time for family Fifield to head back to the hotel, and let this poor guy sleep. But the night was still young for Ray and myself. So saying a hearty farewell to Goong, CJ and Gavin. We headed off in to the night with tummies full of great food and wallets full of beer tokens. Ahh…. the Amber Nectar, the distillation of the forbidden fruit. How sweet it tastes. The San Miguel was going down nicely, the company in Aladdin Bar was very convivial, our meeting with the four Scots was quite funny, but thats a whole new story that I’ll let Ray tell if ever he wishes to. I’ll just say that she was not my wife and her look of total distain had no effect on me what so ever…!
Just after midnight the bars and clubs start too close, and to be honest that for us was a nice time to head home. We had a fantastic night and had drank our fill, it was the ideal time to head for bed. Just one place to visit before the taxi to the hotel. No night on the lash can be complete without topping it off with a beef or pork wrap. So it was off to the street vendor and our munchies were dealt with, not bad for £1.60.
Our Tuk Tuk was a comfortable and a speedy chariot, and I could hear my big comfy bed calling for me. A warm shower and in but a few moments I was snug as a bug in a rug. Sleep came easily hastened by Mr San Miguel. If Ray or I snored I’m not too sure we would have heard it thanks to our Amber Nectar induced comas. Eight hours of great sleep and we roused bright eyed and bushy tailed. Yet another fantastic breakfast with Jennifer our waitress looking after our every need. Wonderful coffee and proper bacon.. Does a man need anything more..? Before our return to Bangkok it was time for the lads to hit the pool. All four of us were just big kids, and CJ loved it, he had three people to throw him around and dive off their shoulders. We did take advantage of the pool bar, well it would have been rude not to, but it was for coffees.
Oh… And a final pool note, we met the Indian equivalent of Rowen Atkinson in the pool, not everyday you get to share the hotel pool with Mr Bean. Even if he is Indian. So finally wrapping CJ in a large towel it was back to our rooms for a quick dry off and change then time to book out. I must add in closing that the Anantara hotel is wonderful, and I cannot thank enough our hosts Gavin, Goong and CJ for a fantastic experience. Once the valet had brought the car and our bags were loaded it was time to get seated comfortably so Gavin could return us to Bangkok and I could start planing my next adventure. To use radio parlance..”Stay tuned, don’t touch that dial..! there is more to come.”
Chesty Traveling 